District Six on a plate

On Saturday, after several cappuccinos in Braamfontein (more on that later), a visit to Kramerville (meh), and a Westpack shopping bonanza (that almost deserves a post on it's own too), we were hungry. To be honest, we're a bit restauranted out, but we were just too famished to go home and conjure up something. Where to go, where to go? And then I remembered driving past a little place in Emmerentia, called District 6 Eatery. Nested between a DIY hardware and a water shop, you are welcomed into a bright pink, hole-in-the-wall kind of p(a)lace.

 

It was 3:40 in the afternoon, and it was quiet. The last bit of winter sun was highlighting a few tables dressed with magenta tablecloths and yellow plastic roses. The walls are covered in old photos of Disrict six, Kaapse Klopse (Cape Minstrel) costumes, and press clippings about the restaurant. The menu consists of only 11 traditional dishes, written on a big chalkboard, and does not feature prices. I was sceptic. This meal could either be a home-coming, or a disaster. We order denning vleis (slow cooked lamb in tamarind) and lamb curry, and hoped for the best.

 

Enters Immanuel. He asked us if this was our first time there. We talked about home cooked food, about bland restaurant meals, and about District six. Immanuel got a twinkle in his blue eyes when he told us about growing up there, and leaving it all behind.

 

But before I continue, what is this District six? In short, in 1876 the area was named the Sixth Municipal District of Cape Town. It was home to former slaves, artisans, merchants and Malay people. By the 1940s it was home to mostly coloured residents. It was a vibrant community (go read Buckingham Palace, District Six). Then the apartheid government decided it was a problem, a slum, and dangerous. In 1966 they proclaimed it as a whites-only area, and started forcibly removing the residents. All their houses were bulldozed. And then, surprise surprise, the area was left undeveloped. I get so angry typing this. Only in 2003 were new buildings built, and residents allowed to return. Tragic.

The arrival of our food was bitter sweet. But soon the tragic story was forgotten. Kat and the Kings serenaded us through the speakers. The roti was piping hot and flaky and delicious.  The lamb fell off the bone. And the pumpkin fritter was soft and sweet and cinnamony. It tasted like home. It tasted like South Africa. Pardon the melodrama - good food does that to one.

Sambals, pineapple chutney, beetroot and chilli, and roti. Was so hungry I forgot to photograph the rest.  

Oh, and don't forget dessert. They claim to serve the best milk tart in Jozi. It was pretty darn good. Forget the sloppy stuff you get at PnP or Woolies. Mmmm. I'll be back.

 

Go see, or rather taste, for yourself. They are apparently always packed in the evenings, so be sure to book. Mains are in the region of R110 and deserts about R38. BYOB - they are not licensed.

District 6 Eatery Corner Greenhills and Barry Hertzog Road, Emmarentia Tel: 011 486 7226

New in Braamfontein: Daleahs. And a cool tattoo.

There are two things I am rather fond of, Braamfontein, and visiting new eateries. Daleahs is in Braamfontein. And they are rather new. Bingo!



We visited Daleahs one famished Saturday morning. Owned by Daleah Arvanitis, it is one of the new residents of 6 De Beer street, a charming, very green (as in paint colour), Victorian Building, down the street from the Neighbourgoods Market.



Daleahs is rather pretty on the inside: with the exposed red brick walls, high ceilings, and whimsical illustrations that adorn the walls, it has a very Williamsburg, New York-like feel.





 Now let's talk food. I had flap jacks/pancakes with bacon and egg. It also came with some berry compote, but I am not a fan of those. The bacon was super crispy and the egg perfect. The flap jacks was a bit flat and chewy. Jaco had fillet skewers with rosemary salt chips, which was beautiful.



I'd like to visit Daleahs again, sit in the courtyard, and try the Greek coffee.

Living wall in the courtyard 

Oh, and before we left, I asked the waiter guy if I could take a picture of his tattoo, which was peaking out of his shirt. I gladly obliged, hiehie. I later found out that he is a friend of a friend. You are known your tattoos, it seems.


Go check out Daleahs. I'm sure there will be something there that you'll love.

Coke or Pepsi

Bon Jovi and the guy who thought he was Kurt Cobain

Everyone has some guilty pleasures. One of mine happens to be Bon Jovi. Yes, 'hair metal' 80s sensation Bon Jovi. They've been Livin' on a prayer for the last thirty years (!), and the last time they were in South Africa was 18 years ago when I was still in primary school. Last night they graced us with their presence again, and I was there!



Firstly, I have to give credit to Big Concerts. After hosting 4 big international acts since November, they seem to have finally gotten it right. It was pretty painless getting into the stadium and signage/directional crew was everywhere.

(As I'm typing this I am listening to Bon Jovi, of course, and experiencing a flutter of excitement just thinking about last night. I would go as far as to call last night legendary. "Shot through the heart and you're to blame...")



It was a freezing night in Jozi, but that would not deter us. My bestie and I was probably some of the youngest people there last night, with the average age being around 45. This is no surprise really, considering they formed in 1983, a year before I was even born. This was very clearly reflected int he fashions of the night too. At Lady Gaga you saw loads of strange stuff. But this was different as contrary to the Little Monsters, these weren't costumes. Here's some highlights (or lowlights)

- The lady with the platinum blond perm and the one strand of black hair
- This lady who took fashion advise from ugly Betty and her poncho



 - This guy's jacket. He was a very enthusiastic fan, I have to add



 - All the 45+, plus sized men with leather jackets
- The guy who got called on stage wearing a Matrix leather coat
- The lady with the velour sweat pants who managed to sneak a little camping chair in while other people got stopped for having deodorant in their bags
- And best of all, the guy who thought he was Kurt Cobain, with the long greasy blond hair, flannel shirt, cowboy boots and jeans with no backside and an open fly. Yes, his grungy jeans were so grungy that the backside was completely missing. Luckily he was too stoned to feel the breeze.


"I'm a cowboy, on a steel horse I ride. I'm wanted, dead or alive."

Back to Jon, I mean Bon Jovi. These guys are old! We were glad they made it onto stage. But damn they can rock. Jon Bon Jovi has had some work done, clearly, and by the end of the night he looked a bit worn. But when he smiles, grabs his guitar and jumps around on stage in his skinny jeans, he looks no older than 30. David Bryan, the keyboard player, looks like he has been standing in that exact spot, in front of the exact same organ keyboard since 1983. His hair says "80's hair metal and proud of it. He was great. So was the drummer, Tico Torres. He rocks so hard he needs to wear gloves. And he didn't have to take off his shirt like the pre-opening act, because, he is an awesome drummer. And the guitarists, yeeaaaah! Especially Phil X, the stand-in for Richie Sambora, with his 'sticker guitar' to mention but few. I almost started a mosh-pit!

"It's my life, it's now or never"



Let me just say again, this show was legendary. They preformed for 3 hours straight, singing all the classics, making as jump and scream and sing every word out loud. They even included "Start me up" by the Rolling Stones and "Pretty woman" by Roy Orbison (because there were "47 000 pretty girls in the audience and 20 000 ugly guys").  The second song they played was "You give love a bad name", one of our absolute favorites, my friend and I went ballistic. The lady in front of me turned around and said we are going to pass out if we keep screaming like that. We kept going, partly to annoy the old men that squeezed infront of us, and partly because Bon Jovi is awesome.

Today I can barely walk and sound like I smoked a pack of Camel Filters.

"Gonna live while I'm alive, I'll sleep when I'm dead."


 
Thanks guys. Keep rocking for another 30 years, hip-replacements and all. And thanks for including "Always" in your second encore. I almost got teary, but not quite like the lady who bawled her eyes out during "Bed of Roses".

"And I will love you, baby, always."

Row, row, row your boat on Zoo Lake.

Some time last year we decided a trip to Zoo Lake was way overdue. We had a lovely time walking around the lake and observing the colourful array of people enjoying the park. We did not, however, have time to go rowing on the lake. A few weekends ago we did just that.



For a mere R10 per adult you get to take one of the little wooden boats onto the water for an hour. Included in the price is your opportunity to pretend you actually know how to row, and to show off your skills. Once you get a hang of it, all that remains is to head in any particular direction, avoiding other equally "skilled" rowers, gaggles of geese, reed forests and the spray of the fountain.



It was quite enjoyable.  I particularly enjoyed watching a boat carrying a whole family, including granny holding an iPad, and daughter holding a parasol. They were feeding the geese and was being followed around by half the lake's population.



If you have nothing on your agenda this weekend, and have R10 to spare, head over to Zoo Lake. Cheapest entertainment in Jozi, surely.

 

Bean Republic - a new kid on the block

I have to admit I am a bit of a coffee fiend. If there is a new coffee shop in town, I have to try it. So when I found out about Bean Republic we had to stop by for a Sunday afternoon cuppa.

Bean Republic is situated in Corlett Drive, almost right across from Melrose Arch shopping center, and a couple of blocks down the road from my old favorite, Wolves. And as we walk in, who do I find with a pan of freshly baked colourful cupcakes? Edwin, the (ex-)manager from Wolves! Yup, from manager to owner, it seems.



I like Edwin's place. It is simple, friendly and brimming with possibility. He leads us downstairs to show us the basement (who knew?!), a renovated space to be used for music evenings and what not. We also receive some warm, unfrosted cupcakes on the house. He says he loves them straight from the oven like that. So do I Edwin.

Go have a look. The menus are fun and "revolutionary, the personel friendly and there is free wi-fi, naturally. As we left a jazz band was setting up, so go check it out, entertainment might just be included with your coffee.



It excites me when a new place opens. Not in a mall. Not in an established area. But in a spot where people in shiny cars would usually just ignore. I am glad and hopeful that Bean Republic will continue in the footsteps of Wolves and Illovo junction. From dingy block of old rundown shops to future en vogue hangout. Maybe it will revive the lower section of Corlett Drive. And maybe it won't be as 'hipster' as "upper" Corlett. But in the mean time I say, Viva Coffee, Viva Bean Republic!

The Ceramic Factory

A while ago I discovered the Ceramic Factory on Facebook. I couldn't quite figure out where they were located, if it was a house or a shop, so I kind of forgot about it. Then, just a couple of weeks ago I noticed, on Facebook, that they have moved to a new shop space in Linden. Right across from the Whippet, my new favorite breakfast spot. Bingo!

Needless to say, we went for breakfast, and while waiting for a table, skipped into the Ceramic Factory, and what a magical place it was:



So, there is something for everyone here. From lovely white vases, wonkey plates, and quirky lamp shades to owls, skulls and robots!



The best part was the bunnies! I was in ceramic bunny heaven.

A table of bunnies.

Bunny plate.

Don't you just want to take him home? I bought the green one in the background.

Who needs boring salt & pepper pots when you can have playful bunnies.

I wanted to buy everything. Go visit it. You will too.

Ceramic Factory, 59 4th ave, Linden

Going south, far south: Struisbaai & Agulhas

I have spent many childhood holidays here. It is far. Far south. It is the little costal town of Struisbaai, pronounced (sort of) Stress Bye as one beach house is dubbed . How do you get there? From Cape Town you turn off the N2 toward Caledon, through Napier, Bredasdorp and then all the way south until you can almost see the ocean. There are no scenic route, so there is little chance that you will accidentally stumble upon it. You need to want to go there.

With few permanent residents, it is very quiet out of season. Perfect.

There are many things I like about this sleepy town with no traffic lights, and one central shopping area which include all the basics: hardware store, fish&chips shop, supermarket, pharmacy, hairdresser, launderette  home industry, giftshop and Irish pub. Here's just a few:

The long, white sandy beaches
When you enter Struis Bay, you drive past a sign that reads Die Plaat (the plate). It is an endless stretch of flat beach, with soft, white, powdery sand. Really powdery (it sticks to your legs). This section of the beach is part of a protected area, so no 4x4-ing over the dunes. It is also rather deserted, which made us a bit nervous. The little neighbourhood next to Die Plaat shares this kind of beach. On the day we were the only people there, apart from some people learning to surf.

"I like long walks on the beach..."

Just beach.

Some of the beaches are not so sandy, but are instead covered with grey pebbles of different sizes, progressing from small at the water's edge to large at the foot of the dunes. It makes the most amazing sound as the tide flows and ebbs. Like a rainstick, just better.



The harbour
The harbour is small and quant. There are always a bunch of colourful fishing boats floating around, making you shudder at the thought of them out in the rough, open seas. We visited the harbour almost every day, to buy soft serve ice cream from an old lady in a caravan. This is followed by a stroll on the harbour wall, or the jetty, always peering into the crystal clear water to see if you can spot the stingrays. And boy, were they spotted!

Harbour wall

Really big stingray or common ray, not sure which one. We saw about 5 at one time.

 If you arrive just at the right time, you can hang around, watching the fishermen arrive back, unloading their hard earned catch, under the watchful eye of the police and the seagulls. Be sure to eat as much fresh fish as you can. No fancy Joburg restaurant meal can ever compare to today's catch, drenched in lemon and butter.






The L'Agulhas, and the most southern point of Africa
L'Agulhas or Cape Agulhas is the neighbouring town of Stuisbaai. If you keep following the main road, you pass around Spookdraai (ghost curve), and then you are in Agulhas. It is also home to the most southern tip of Africa, and the point where the two oceans really meet. Yes, that wine bottle lied, it is not at Cape Point. Agulhas has a beautiful old lighthouse which is currently being renovated. Usually you can pay a small fee, and scale the ancient wooden steps and ladders to the top. It offers an amazing view, if you can face the hights. I have been known to cry on many occasions, somewhere between up and down.

Legend has it that old seafarers often stranded on the jagged boulders around Agulhas, because their compas needles went haywire. Shipwrecks litter the coast, and one is still (barely) visible if you just pass the most southern point.

The official point is very unimpressive. There is a small monument to indicate the spot. Recently a wheelchair accessible walkway has been built, with a few benches along the way so you can admire the view and just listen to the crashing waves.

Tourists taking pics. I too have taken many pics here over the years. 

But I have to say, my favorite thing to visit in Stuis Bay and/or Agulhas, is the rock pools. When the tide goes out, the rocky pools, teeming with life, are revealed. Tiny starfish, hermit crabs, snails, and klipvisse (rock fish?). I can sit here for hours, just watching this little ecosystem. Magical.

Spot the fish (tip: bottom, middle)

If you need to escape, go south, until you can't go any further.